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1. #MY LASER WILL NOT ENGRAVE ANY PHOTOGRAV IMAGE FULL#
2. #MY LASER WILL NOT ENGRAVE ANY PHOTOGRAV IMAGE SOFTWARE#
3. #MY LASER WILL NOT ENGRAVE ANY PHOTOGRAV IMAGE TRIAL#

Get the image sized exactly then select the bitmap and then select 'Bitmaps/Edit bitmap'. Using Corel, I did it this way, before the new ULS driver.

#MY LASER WILL NOT ENGRAVE ANY PHOTOGRAV IMAGE SOFTWARE#

If you do it all the time the photograv software is likely a good investment which we will get sooner or later. Some people have suggested converting to halftone but I have

#MY LASER WILL NOT ENGRAVE ANY PHOTOGRAV IMAGE TRIAL#

I learned most of it by trial and error so I am sure parts of it will seem stupid to the people who know more. I am by far an expert on this but people don't seem willing to share their secret details. That part and your dpi settings are also trial and error. I off focus some but not as much as normal since it tends to over lighten the image. Use the photo setting on the laser if you have one. I left in in a large file size for detail.įor the laser settings if it is lasered under 2" it usually looks best at 600 dpi but 400dpi is usually better for larger images. But again not the total black and white that looks good on the screen.Īttached is part of a photograph showing the approximite shades of gray. To brighten the background or add some contrast around the eyes. I have dual monitors and when I drag it to the crt it has much more contrast and depth. If you happen to be using an lcd monitor the image on the screen needs to look very light and faded. The laser will look best with only mid gray colors.) (You basically do not want any totally black or white areas. Leave it as a straight line and move the black up about a quarter and the white down a little less. You can also repaint the background white if you have adjusted the shade and in ends up with a light gray background. If you are masking out the background or have masked some areas to adjust separately, the masks will not be saved in the bmp.

I also save it as a bmp at 150 dpi and also as a cpt. After making each change, save it as _1 _2 etc in case you destroy it and want to go back. Gold alumamark is the opposite of black brass but I can't remember which is which right now.) (It depends on the background lightness whether you want to invert. Invert the Image (like a negative, not flipped) Here are a few of the things I do using Corel photo paint, saving as a bmp and lasering from Xenetech(could be done from coreldraw).Ĭovert it to grayscale.

I can get some photos to come out ok on acrylic with a lot of trial and error. If you're engraving on clear acrylic, you'll get much better results if you reverse the image (it will look like a negative on screen.) On our 45 watt Epilog, I engrave photos at 100% speed/50% Power, 600 dpi.Īre you using cast acrylic or extruded acrylic? There is a big difference in how the two engrave.

#MY LASER WILL NOT ENGRAVE ANY PHOTOGRAV IMAGE FULL#

Full Version: laser engraving photographs